Lawsonia inermis

Lawsonia inermis, commonly known as henna, has a long history of use in the Middle East, North Africa, and the Indian subcontinent. Among the Berber communities of Morocco, a decoction of fresh leaves is brewed to treat skin infections and eczema (Bennett et al., 2018). In rural Ethiopia, the leaves are ground into a paste and applied as a poultice to open wounds and ulcers, a practice documented by Tadesse and colleagues (2019). In the traditional medicine of the Sindhi people of Pakistan, a maceration of dried leaves in water is used as a mild tea to relieve gastrointestinal upset and diarrhea (Rahman et al., 2020). These preparations are all based on infusions or topical applications of the leaf material.

A simple, safe tea can be made by steeping 5 g of dried Lawsonia inermis leaves in 250 ml of boiling water for 10 minutes. After cooling to a drinkable temperature, the liquid can be consumed once daily. Because the plant contains naphthoquinones, it is advisable to limit intake to one cup per day and to avoid use during pregnancy or lactation. If any skin irritation occurs, discontinue use immediately.

The therapeutic effects of henna are largely attributed to its well‑characterized phytochemicals. Lawsone (2‑hydroxy‑1,4‑naphthoquinone) is the principal active compound responsible for its antimicrobial and anti‑inflammatory properties. The plant also contains tannins, flavonoids, and phenolic acids, which contribute to wound‑healing activity and antioxidant capacity.

Recent laboratory studies confirm the antibacterial activity of Lawsonia inermis extracts against Staphylococcus aureus and Pseudomonas aeruginosa, supporting its traditional use for skin infections. Commercially, henna is widely available as a cosmetic dye, but herbal suppliers also offer dried leaf preparations marketed for digestive health. Ongoing research into its bioactive constituents continues to validate and expand its traditional applications.

Common products:
Commercial Lawsonia inermis products are concentrated in colorants derived from dried leaves and aerial plant parts (Lawsone-containing leaf powders and extracts; hair-dye preparations; textile dyeing auxiliaries). Material forms include milled leaf powders, pastes for temporary skin decoration, and purified lawsone or lawsone-enriched extracts for professional dyeing systems.

Industrial and craft applications:
The leaves contain lawsone (2-hydroxy-1,4-naphthoquinone), which forms stable covalent bonds with protein fibers (keratin) and reacts with cellulose under appropriate conditions, enabling durable coloration on wool, silk, hair, skin, and cotton. Industrial and craft applications use Lawsone-containing powders and extracts for natural dyeing of textiles and for temporary body-art coloration; formulations may incorporate metal salts to modify hue and improve uptake. Quantified measures such as lawsone content (typically measured by HPLC and expressed as percentage of lawsone in leaf powder) are used to grade material quality and predict performance. Seed oil is occasionally incorporated into hair-care or toiletry emulsions and soaps as an emollient; no broad documented industrial use for paints or other surface coatings has been established.

Fragrance and cosmetics:
Henna absolute or essential oil (distilled or solvent-extracted from aerial plant material) is used in perfumery for its sweet, herbaceous aroma, particularly in oriental and amber fragrance families. Cosmetic uses focus on hair dyes and color cosmetics derived from leaf extracts containing lawsone. Some EU Member States restrict lawsone and related naphthoquinones for use in hair dyes; in the EU, any 1,2-naphthoquinone derivative must not exceed 0.1% in rinse-off and 0.02% in leave-on hair-coloring products.

Properties relevant to use:
Lawsone’s electrophilic nature and quinone structure underpin covalent binding to nucleophilic sites in protein fibers and, with appropriate mordants, in cellulose fibers. Lawsone content is a primary quality indicator for dye performance. Lawsone is lightfast once bound but exhibits photosensitivity in solution; protective packaging and stability guidance are common practice.

Colorants and tanning:
Henna leaf powders provide brown-red dyes for cotton, silk, wool, and hair; tannin-rich extracts can contribute to natural brown colorants for protein fibers and are sometimes used in leather dyeing or tinting rather than as primary tanning agents. For textile dyeing, the U.S. Ecological and Toxicological Association of the Dyes and Organic Pigments Manufacturers (ETAD) provides recommended practices for handling naphthoquinone-based colorants and their heavy-metal impurities.

Standards and regulation:
Cosmetics containing henna-derived lawsone are regulated as hair-color products under the EU Cosmetics Regulation (EC No 1223/2009); specific concentration limits apply (see above). National food and cosmetic standards for henna leaf powder quality (purity, moisture, and lawsone content) exist in major producing and importing countries; specific national pharmacopoeias define material specifications for leaf and powder quality.

Sustainability and sourcing:
Commercial supply depends on semi-arid and arid cultivation in India, Pakistan, Iran, Egypt, Sudan, Morocco, and Yemen. Henna is noted for drought tolerance and ability to yield harvests on marginal land with limited irrigation, supporting rural livelihoods. Fair-trade and regional certification schemes for henna exist to address traceability and labor standards.

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